100 Years Of Fashion Illustration
Laurence King Publishing
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100 Years of Fashion Illustration
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100 Years of Fashion documents in pictures the most exciting and diverse period in fashion: from 1900 to today, covering high society, uniforms, sportswear, streetwear and couture. It will appeal to everyone with an interest in fashion as well as students.
I am sharing a round-up of my favourite fashion books that you should be reading! These are all books that I have found helpful throughout my fashion journey. They are all part of my own personal library & have been for years.
When I was a student studying fashion, money was sparse so I would spend my time researching books that could help me learn and find inspiration from. Saving up a few dollars here and there allowed me to buy a new book every few months.
If you are looking for an inspirational book with lots of lovely illustrations this one is for you. This book is beaming with colours, design and sketches that you are sure to pull inspiration from. Along with this, there is a whole heap of interesting history explaining the artwork so get ready to learn some new things!
This book starts from 1900 to 1975 & beyond including art work by Andy Warhol. As you flick through the eras you will find a very detailed introduction to the years on how the events around the world influence the changes in fashion. It also spotlights what iconic designers are rising to fame and why. I find this so insightful and inspiring. Once you understand the history of the eras you get to flick through collections of beautiful illustrations.
I find the artwork by Megan so inspiring to look at while I am learning more about fashion history. You will also find whimsically illustrated quotes by Coco Chanel in this book. Small details go such a long way to inspire.
A fashion dictionary one might say. This book is bursting with fashion history, from designers, photographers, models who inspired and created the fashion industry, this books really does share it all.
I found this book before I decided to study fashion and it has been such a helpful resource to have on hand. How Patterns Work dives deep into the bare basics of sewing and pattern making. It explains terminology like what a selvedge is and how to create pattern shapes using dart manipulation and draping.
There are so many things that you may not know about if you are a self-taught seamstress. Did you know that notches are not marked as triangles in the fashion industry? They are actually straight lines that we call nicks or notches and are cut into the seam allowance with a pattern notcher. This is one of the many informative topics in this book.
I hope this has bought some clarity to any books you may consider purchasing for your fashion library. I love to encourage reading books over the internet as its easier to find what you may be looking for in an index. I can find the internet so overwhelming at times!
100 Years of Fashion Illustration is a new book, published by Laurence King Publishing written by Cally Blackman. It is a fantastic reference for any vintage fashion fan, sharing 400 illustrations from the Edwardian era through to the noughties which highlight to the reader how fashions have changed over 100 years.
We are used to seeing fashion photography, but what the author shares is that illustration shows us so much more. Yes photography captures the moment and shows us exactly what the item and the model look like, but illustrations give us so much more. A photographer can only show us what he can see. But an illustration shows us what the designer wanted us to see. They can highlight something that they want us to notice, and exaggerate it if needed to emphasise it.
The book starts in the Edwardian period with long dresses and billowy long coats. It takes us quite quickly to the golden age of fashion illustration; the 1920s with all its Art Deco influence. The Vogue covers of the time are iconic as are some of the adverts that are shown in the book.
In the late 1940s , when Christian Dior designed his New Look collection fashion changed. Full skirts using so much more fabric became popular into the 1950s with the fashion set; the illustrations become slightly more romantic with a brush stroke background. I want them all!
The 1960s is my favourite decade of the 20th century and this chapter does not disappoint. Fashion illustration became less popular at this time, as photographers became idols themselves; remember photos of Twiggy rather than drawings. I love the fun look of this era shown here.
Fashion illustration became popular again in the 1980s as the artist is able to accentuate shoulder pads and nipped in waists; something that a photographer would find hard, relying on a stylist to over style.
The photographer David Bailey described a fashion photograph simply as "a portrait of someone wearing a dress". The roots of the profession are found in Victorian society portraiture. From as early as the 1840s, debutantes, actresses and dancers posed in their finery for portrait photographers, just as their mothers had sat for the great portrait painters of their day.
Fashion photography has never existed in a vacuum. Photographers have continually pushed boundaries, and the tension between artistic and commercial demands has generated great creativity and technical innovation. Whether as fashion shoots or advertisements, these images reflect contemporary culture, world events and the dramatic shifts in women's roles throughout the 20th century.
In 1911, at the height of Europe's golden age of prosperity and elegance, the American photographer Edward Steichen photographed models wearing dresses by the designer Paul Poiret. Thirteen soft-focus images were printed in the magazine Art et Décoration, and Steichen later proclaimed them "the first serious fashion photographs ever made".
In an earlier, pre-photography age, fashion magazines such as Le Costume Français and Journal des Dames et des Modes had included engraved illustrations but had only a limited readership. Advancements in printing processes in the 1890s allowed photographs to be printed on the same page as text, and fashion magazines became more widely available.
In 1909, the publisher Condé Nast bought an American social magazine entitled Vogue. He transformed it into a high-class fashion publication with international aspirations. Swiftly followed by the re-launched Harper's Bazaar, Vogue sought to capture the spirit and fashions of New York, London and Paris through innovative photography and a growing supply of glamorous models.
The cultural movement of Surrealism had a profound impact on fashion magazines in the 1920s and '30s. Paintings by Salvador Dalí and Giorgio de Chirico featured in Vogue alongside avant-garde photographs by Man Ray. Some fashion photographers adopted their revolutionary principles, attempting to give visual expression to the unconscious mind. New techniques and unexpected juxtapositions were used to challenge perceptions of reality, to amuse and to disturb.
During the Second World War 'make do and mend' was the prevailing approach to fashion. As the world gradually recovered from the horrors of war, a fresh cohort of designers emerged. The desire to embrace glamour and femininity after years of wartime austerity found its most extreme expression in Christian Dior's New Look, launched in 1947, with its nipped-in waists and extravagantly full skirts.
The elegantly sensual vision of photographer Lillian Bassman complemented the new fashions. She pioneered an approach in which evoking a mood took precedence over depicting the details of the clothes. Bassman's grainy images frustrated Harper's Bazaar editor Carmel Snow, who warned her in 1949:
In the 1950s a fresh dynamism infected the major fashion magazines as photographers adopted a more spontaneous, photojournalistic approach. Models spilled out onto city streets, studio backdrops were replaced by city skylines.
In 1957 Richard Avedon photographed a model striding along the Place François-Premier in Paris for American Harper's Bazaar. She appears mid-step, her Cardin coat billowing behind her. Both feet are off the ground, as though a gust of wind has lifted her into the air. Avedon titled the photograph In Homage to Munkácsi, a reference to one of the first fashion photographers to work primarily outside the studio. Writing ahead of the trend in his 1935 article Think While You Shoot, Martin Munkácsi advised: 041b061a72